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The Unforgettable Cables Headband/Ear Warmer crochet pattern is made with Red Heart Yarn’s Boutique Unforgettable yarn. I love the feel of this yarn. I love the subtle color changes and I love the warmth it provides without adding weight.
Don’t you hate typical crocheted headgear that allow wind and cold to enter through the gaps between stitches? This headband/ear warmer is different from most because it is double the thickness to create a denser, warmer fabric, but isn’t too bulky. I love cables and think the center wider cable, offset by the thinner cable on either side add just the right touch of interest, texture and elegance.
Unforgettable Cables Headband/Ear Warmer
Materials:
In Worsted Yarn:
• Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable or other similar #4 worsted weight yarn.
• 2 Stitch Markers
Gauge/Hook:
Hook USI/5.5mm
Gauge is not important for this project.
Size: Approximately 4” x 22”
Abbreviations:
beg: beginning
ch(s): chain(s)
dc: double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
FPtr: Front post treble crochet
sc: single crochet
sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together
sl st: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
Special Stitch:
FPtr – Front Post Treble Crochet: Yarn over hook twice, insert hook around the post of the desired stitch (instead of trough the top of the stitch as normal), yarn over and pull loop through (4 loops on hook), [yarn over and pull through 2 loops] a total of three times, leaving 1 loop on hook.
Notes:
• Weave ends as you work.
• Ch1 at beginning of row does NOT count as stitch.
• Stitch count for row is in ( ) at end of row.
• Stitch count is same as previous row unless otherwise noted.
• Instructions in [ ] should be completed as a set as indicated.
• When a number precedes a stitch, complete that number of stitches in the next stitch. Example: 3hdc means work 3hdc in the next stitch.
The headband is worked as a tube in the round to provide extra thickness and warmth. The underside is flat double crochet and the top side has a 6 post cable in the center, with a smaller cable on either side. The back is tapered at the base of the head for comfort and fit.
Cables can seem a little difficult until you get the hang of them. Simply work the stitches in order and coax the ones that are “hiding”, at the cross overs, out so that you can work them more easily.
Join each round with a sl st to first st.
Round 1: Ch20, join with sl st to first ch to form loop, ch1, work sc in each ch to end. (20)
Place a stitch marker between 10th & 11th st and between 20th and 1st st. Move these markers up as you work the rounds to mark the sides.
Rounds 2 to 4: Ch1, sc in each st to end, join.
Rounds 5 to 7: Note: In these rounds you will work an increase in the stitch before and stitch right after the maker. This will increase 4 sts in each round. Ch1, *2sc, sc in each st until there is one left before the marker, 2sc*, repeat between *, join. (32 after last repeat)
Round 8: Ch2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each st around, join. (32)
Round 9: Ch3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc next 17 sts, skip next st, FPtr next st, working in front of st just made FPtr in skipped st, dc next st,*skip next 3 sts, FPtr next 3 sts, working in front of stitches just made go back and work FPtr in 3 skipped sts* (instructions between * are the cable), dc next st, skip next st, FPtr next st, working in front of st just made FPtr in skipped st, dc last 2 sts, join. (32)
Round 10: Ch3, dc next 17 sts, FPtr next 2 sts, dc next st, FPtr next 6 sts, dc next st, FPtr next 2 sts, dc last 2, join.
Round 11: Ch3, dc next 17 sts, skip next st, FPtr next st, working in front of st just made FPtr in skipped st, dc next st,*skip next 3 sts, FPtr next 3 sts, working in front of stitches just made go back and work FPtr in 3 skipped sts*, dc next st, skip next st, FPtr next st, working in front of st just made FPtr in skipped st, dc last 2 sts, join.
Repeat Round 10 and Round 11 until the piece measures 19” from the beginning.
Next Round A: Repeat Round 8.
Next Round B: Ch1, *sc2tog, sc in each st until there are two left before the marker, sc2tog*, repeat between *, join. This will decrease 4 sts. (28)
Repeat Next Round B, two more times. Fasten off after last repeat leaving an 18” tail. (20 sts after last repeat)
To join two ends together: Bring two ends together with cables facing each other, match stitches, using yarn needle threaded with 18” of yarn from last round, stitch together, turning as you work so that you sew all around the band.
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Love this pattern. Hope I can make it. Thank you so much for the free pattern.
Thank you and I’m sure you can make it, just take it slow and I’m sure it will come out great.
hi I have a question.
rounds 5 – 7 you are doing 2sc in one stitch after stitch marker and one stitch after. Then you are only increasing 2 stitches per round and not 4 as indicated. At the end of round 7 there are only 26 stitches instead of 32. Can you please clarify
I think I get it now. There are two stitch markers used 🙂
Love this! Can’t wait to make one. Very rich looking.
Thanks! It’s really warm too with the double thickness but doesn’t look too bulky. My daughter and son’s girlfriend are fighting over this one, so I guess I’ll have to make another 🙂
I love this pattern!!! The cabled stitch design is beautiful! Thank you so much!!!!
Thanks!