This post contains affiliate links.
*** Purchase an ad-free PDF on Ravelry*** ***
~ And don’t forget to Pin It Too ~
Find all my FREE crochet patterns HERE
This poncho is a fun piece that doubles as a sweater, vest or tunic! A great fashion piece to add a little extra warmth. The body of the poncho is designed in basic double crochet and the hearts are introduced every few rows for a little sweetness. It is sewn at the sides with a large vent from the waist to the hemline. I love the side closure, split collar too.
I used Red Heart Soft Essentials. It is a very soft bulky #5 acrylic with a nice sheen and drape. I really like this yarn for projects from garments to blankets!
See my yarn reviews HERE.
Thank you Red Heart for sponsoring the yarn and coupon code for this event!
Get 20%off your entire yarn purchase with my exclusive
(valid through 2/28/2018 – one time use)
Would you like to win the yarn to make this tunic?
Head down to the end of this post for the Rafflecopter entry!
This project is part of the Month of Love with Red Heart Yarn event.
Be sure to join us for the fun and prizes throughout February …..Details HERE!
- Size 2 = 25” chest x 16” long
- Size 4/6 = 31” chest x 19” long
- Size 8/10 = 35 chest x 22 long
- Size 12/14 = 38 chest x 25 long
Dimensions are finished size, not body size. Pattern is written with instructions by size in order as follows (2, 4/6, 8/10, 12/14)
Red Heart Essentials Bulky Weight Yarn (131 yards per skein):
- Color 1 (greyhound) – 2, 3, 3, 4 skeins
- Color 2 (misty rose) – 1, 1, 1, 2 skein(s)
Yarn needle for weaving ends
Gauge: Gauge is important for fit in this pattern. Please take the time to check your gauge.
9 stitches and one repeat of Rows 4 to 8 = approximately 3”.
Abbreviations (US Terms):
BLO = back loop only
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
FLO = front loop only
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
CL = dc2tog in same st
Shell = [CL, ch1, sl st, ch1, CL] in same st
- Stitch count is in ( ) at end of row.
- Weave ends as you work.
- Beginning Ch1 does not count as a stitch.
- Fasten off at color changes.
- Poncho is worked from the bottom up in two pieces that are seamed at the shoulders and sides.
Row 1: With Color 1, ch9, starting in 2nd ch from hook and working in back bump, sl st in each ch. (8)
Row 2: Ch1, turn, working in BLO, sl st in each st. (8)
Row 3: Ch2 (counts as hdc), turn, working in BLO, hdc in each st. (8)
Repeat Rows 2 & 3, ending with a row 3 repeat, until piece measures (12.5”, 15.5”, 17.5”, 19”)
Next 2 Rows: Repeat Row 2, twice.
Last Row: Ch1, turn, working in FLO, sl st to end. Do not fasten off.
Body (make 2):
Row 1: Ch1, turn to work along the side of band rows, sc (36, 43, 50, 57) evenly across.
Tip: to crochet evenly, divide the length by 4 and mark with stitch markers, then work a quarter of the stitches in each section between stitch markers.
Row 2 (right side row): Ch3 (counts as dc throughout), turn, dc in each st to end. (36, 43, 50, 57)
Row 3: Ch3 (place SM in top of this ch3), turn, dc in each st to end, ch1, place st marker in last st to hold the loop. (36, 43, 50, 57)
Gauge Check: Width at this point should be ½ the finished chest measurement designated for your size. If it is not, adjust your hook size accordingly.
Row 4 (heart row): Join Color 2 in st 1 of previous row where you placed the SM (see Figure 1), this means this row is worked in the same direction as the previous row,
ch2, dc in same st (counts as beginning CL), *ch3, skip 6, Shell in next st *, repeat between * until there are 7 sts left, ch3, skip 6, dc2tog in last st (counts as ending CL) picking up the ch1 from previous row (see Figure 2). (4, 5, 6, 7 hearts + cluster stitches at beginning and end of row)
Row 5: With Color 1, ch1, turn, sc in first st, ch2, *encasing chs of previous row, dc into 3rd and 4th of the 6 skipped sts two rows below (see Figure 3), ch2, sc in sl st in center of Shell, ch2*, repeat between * to last Shell, dc into center two sts of 6 skipped sts two rows below, ch2, sc in last st. (36, 43, 50, 57 sts and chains)
Row 6: Ch3, turn, work 2dc in each ch2 sp, and 1dc in each sc and dc to end (see Figure 4). (36, 43, 50, 57)
Rows 7 & 8: Ch3, turn, dc in each st to end. (36, 43, 50, 57)
Gauge Check: This is a good point to verify gauge again. Width at this point should be ½ the finished chest measurement designated for your size. If it is not, adjust your hook size accordingly. Rows 4 to 8 should be approximately 3”.
Repeat Rows 4 to 8 (2, 3, 4, 5) times.
Repeat Rows 4 to 6.
You will have (4, 5, 6, 7) rows of hearts in total.
Make decreases over 2 rows. For decrease rows, sl sts don’t count in st count.
Decrease Row 1: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each st until there are 4 remaining, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st, leave last st unworked. (32, 39, 46, 53)
Decrease Row 2: Turn, skip first sl st, sl st in first 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each st until there are 4 remaining, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st, leave last st unworked. (28, 35, 42, 49)
Last Row: Turn, skip first sl st, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in each st until there are two remaining, hdc in next st, sc in last st. Fasten off. (28, 35, 42, 49)
Shoulder Seams: Mark (3.5”, 4.5”, 5”, 6”) to either side of center of neckline (see Figure 5). Sew shoulders seam from beginning of decrease row to stitch marker – this will leave a (7”, 9”, 10”, 12”) opening for neck.
Side Border: With right side facing, join yarn at end of hemline, ch1, sc evenly around entire edge of both front and back (see Figure 6). Repeat for other side and be sure to have the same stitch count as first side. This will create an edge along the side seam to finish the armholes and vents plus provide a place to sew the underarm seam.
Side Seams: Place stitch marker (5”, 6”, 7”, 8”) from shoulder seam and another (5”, 6”, 7”, 8”) up from hemline, sew side seam between stitch markers (see Figure 7).
Round 1: Join Color 1 at shoulder seam ch1, sc in evenly around neckline being sure to end with an odd number of sts.
Round 2: Ch1, sc in each st to end. Fasten off.
Decide which side you want to use as the front. Place a stitch marker 2 sts toward the front from shoulder seam (see Figure 8).
The collar is worked from the wrong side of the poncho starting at the front.
Row 1: With Color 2, ch (12, 12, 16, 16) sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, sl st to st with stitch marker, turn, working in BLO, sl st in each st to end. (11)
Note: For a wider collar, add chains to the beginning chain as desired.
Row 2: Ch1, turn, working in BLO, hdc in each st, skip one st on neckline, sl st in next st (see Figure 9).
Row 3: Ch1, turn, working in BLO, sl st in each st to end.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until there is one st left on neckline.
Last Row: Ch1, turn, working in BLO, sl st in first 8 sts, ch3 (creates buttonhole), working in BLO, sl st in each remaining st to end, sl st to last st at neckline. Fasten off.
Sew button in place.
I can’t wait to see your finished projects,
so feel free to share them on my Facebook page!
Follow me on…
Sign up for my newsletter and get free patterns, giveaways and
other fun stuff delivered directly to your mailbox!
I’m always happy to help you with questions regarding my patterns. Send me a message and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible. Please feel free to sell finished items from my patterns. Pattern credit is not required, but is always appreciated.
Copyright © 2018 Pattern Paradise. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher.