Sweet Tea Beanie Hat
The Sweet Tea Beanie is the ideal hat for warmer weather with an airy stitch pattern to keep you cool
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I made this simple hat for a friend going through chemo treatments. The airy, less dense stitch pattern makes it just right for the warmer weather. I used two strands (together) of Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread Classic 10 for this project and I love the look and weight of the finished hat. You could use any yarn or thread that will give you the correct gauge.
The stitch sequence is mostly half double crochet V Stitches, but in the lighter thread weight, they look completely different, don’t they? I designed this hat as a beanie, but if you prefer a slouchy, simply add additional repeats to get the desired look.
Of course you could make this style hat in just about any yarn and size combination, so I’ve provided a “recipe” at the end of this post so you can experiment with your own size and yarn choices.
Pattern Instructions
Size: Adult Small/ Medium – Fits head size 21 – 23”, 9” long
Materials:
Fingering Weight Yarn – I used 2 strands together of Aunt Lydia’s #10 crochet thread – 2 balls, approximately 300 yards each.
Hook US F/3.75 mm
Gauge: 9 V Sts x 17 Rows = 4”
Abbreviations (US Terms):
ch = chain
hdc= half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
V St = [hdc, ch1, hdc] in same st
- Weave ends as you work.
- Stitch count is in ( ) at the end of the Round/Row.
- Repeat instructions between [ ] as indicated.
- Beginning chain does not count as a stitch.
- Join rounds with slip stitch to first stitch of round.
- The hat is worked in rounds but turned after the.
Band:
Row 1: Ch11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end. (10 sc)
Row 2: Ch1, turn, working in back loop only, sc in each st to end. (10)
Rows 3 to 96: Repeat Row 2 – Measures approximately 20”
Join: Place right sides together of short ends, sl st together to form a ring. Do not fasten off.
Hat:
Round 1: Ch1, working along the side of band rows, work 132 sc evenly to end (this works out to approximately 4 sc every 3 rows + a couple more), join. (132 sc)
Round 2: Ch1, sc in each st to end, join. (132)
Round 3: Ch4 (counts as dc + ch1), dc in same st, skip 2, *[dc, ch1, dc] in next st, skip 2*; repeat between * to end, join. (88 dc + 44 ch1 spaces)
Round 4: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch3 (counts as hdc + ch1), hdc in same st, VSt in each ch1 space to end, join. (44 V St)
Repeat Round 4 until piece measures 5.5” from edge (including band width). Note: If you prefer more slouch, work more repeats of Round 4.
Decreases:
Skip the hdc at the end of each repeat when working successive rounds — see note in red for Round 1 as an example.
Round 1: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch2 (counts as hdc), *VSt in next 10 ch1 spaces, hdc in next ch1 space (skip this st when working next round)*, repeat between * to end, join. (40 V St)
Round 2: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch3 (counts as hdc + ch1), hdc in same st, VSt in each ch1 space to end, join. (40 V St)
Round 3: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch2 (counts as hdc), *VSt in next 9 ch1 spaces, hdc in next ch1 space*, repeat between * to end, join. (36 V St)
Round 4: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch3 (counts as hdc + ch1), hdc in same st, VSt in each ch1 space to end, join. (36 V St)
Round 5: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch2 (counts as hdc), *VSt in next 8 ch1 spaces, hdc in next ch1 space*, repeat between * to end, join. (32 V St)
Round 6: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch3 (counts as hdc + ch1), hdc in same st, VSt in each ch1 space to end, join. (32 V St)
Round 7: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch2 (counts as hdc), *VSt in next 7 ch1 spaces, hdc in next ch1 space*, repeat between * to end, join. (28 V St)
Round 8: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch3 (counts as hdc + ch1), hdc in same st, VSt in each ch1 space to end, join. (28 V St)
Round 9: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch2 (counts as hdc), *VSt in next 6 ch1 spaces, hdc in next ch1 space*, repeat between * to end, join. (24 V St)
Round 10: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch3 (counts as hdc + ch1), hdc in same st, VSt in each ch1 space to end, join. (24 V St)
Round 11: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch2 (counts as hdc), *VSt in next 5 ch1 spaces, hdc in next ch1 space*, repeat between * to end, join. (20 V St)
Round 12: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch3 (counts as hdc + ch1), hdc in same st, VSt in each ch1 space to end, join. (20 V St)
Round 13: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch2 (counts as hdc), *VSt in next 4 ch1 spaces, hdc in next ch1 space*, repeat between * to end, join. (16 V St)
Round 14: Turn, sl st into ch1 space, ch2, dc in next ch1 space (counts as dc2tog), working in ch1 spaces, dc2tog to end, join leaving a long tail to close top. (8 dc)
Thread a tapestry needle with the long tail, working from inside of hat, weave in and out of the last 8 stitches and pull tightly to close hole. Fasten off.
“Recipe”
This hat is easy to size for various head sizes as well as yarn weight. The basic “recipe” is as follows:
- Make the Band long enough to go around the head less 2”
- The first round of the hat establishes the V St pattern. This round must be a number of sts divisible by 3, ex 99, 102, 105…129, and I used 132 for the Adult size. I usually do 1. 5 times the number of rows in the band and then adjust accordingly to make sure I have a number that is divisible by 3.
- Once you have the V St pattern going, work as many rounds as needed for the side length of the hat before you start decreases. If you want the hat slouchier, make this part longer. The side length of the hat is your desired finished length less the number of rounds needed for the decreases. As a general rule of thumb, I allow 3.5” worth of decreases for adult sizes, 3” for kids sizes and 2.5” for toddler. You will have to figure out how may actual rows of decreases you will need based on your gauge.
- I establish a round of no decreases between each decrease round to achieve more gradual shaping.
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