Free Crochet Pattern: Chelsea Top

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I’m so excited to be sharing the Chelsea Top with you today. I first designed this for a Furls CAL. If you haven’t participated in one of their CALs, I’ recommend giving it  a try, they have some fantastic designers sharing unique designs each month!

The original top was available in a tee shirt length with a sleeveless and 3/4 sleeve version; however, I’ve decided to add a crop top version too! The pattern below includes all the different options for the entire size range!

 

 

 

The Design:

I designed the Chelsea Top in a wide range of sizes from small to 4X so there should be something for almost everyone. It is worked as a square from the top down forming the yoke, then the stitches are divided into front, back, and two sleeves and the bodice is established and worked toward the hem. The sleeves, should you choose them, are worked right onto the armholes and are designed to end about 3/4 down the arm. You could also finish off the armholes for a sleeveless version. The stitch combination is a very basic double crochet and filet combination but done in such a way to give the top elegance and interest.

Since I know you love patterns with options, I’ve added two different length options, crop top and tee shirt (hip) length, but the Chelsea Top is easy enough to adjust if you need to customize the length further.

WARNING: This top may become your favorite and you may want to make it in many colors!

One thing I can’t emphasize enough is working a gauge swatch. We all crochet differently and the type of yarn and hooks we use add even more variables, so if you want a proper fit, take the time to make a gauge swatch and adjust your hooks as needed. You may like my tutorial, Crochet Gauge – Does Size Matter?,  that breaks down a gauge swatch.

Sound complicated? Don’t worry, it’s not, and the pattern will walk you through the easy steps.

 

The Yarn:

I was delighted to design this top using Furls Whims Merino, DK weight (#3) yarn. Each hank is 196 yards and available in luscious colors plus an un-dyed option. Let me tell you, this yarn was fantastic to work with. It has a beautiful sheen and drape, it glides through your hook and the stitch definition is amazing. I love, love, love it!

The yarn is made of 50% super-wash merino and 50% nylon which is the perfect balance for garment stretch and wearability and, each hank is delivered in a satiny, drawstring bag — can you say elegance?

 

Get Furls Whims Merino Yarn HERE!

 

Size: S, (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X) Pattern written for smallest size with changes as indicated in ( ).

Materials:

• DK Weight (#3) yarn, I used Furls Whims Merino (196 yards per hank); see chart for yardage used.
• Furls Odyssey Hooks
  • Hook J/6.00 mm
  • Hook I/5.50 mm
  • Hook H/5.00 mm
• 4 locking stitch makers
• Tapestry needle for weaving ends

 

 

 

 

 

Gauge: 19 dc x 10 rows = 5”

 

Abbreviations (US Terms):
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet
hdc: half double crochet
sc: single crochet
sl: slip
st(s): stitch(es)
tog: together

 

Notes:

• Weave in ends as you work.
• Beginning ch2 does NOT count as a stitch.
• Number in ( ) at end of round indicates the number of stitches in that round.
• Join rounds with sl st to first st of round.
• Ch1 spaces within the round count as a stitch toward total stitch count. Ch2 spaces within the round are referred to as Corner.

 

 

The Chelsea Top is worked top down. You will work the yoke and then fold it in half to establish the beginning of the bodice. Once the top is complete, the sleeves are worked from the armhole opening toward the cuff.

The Chelsea Top is available in two different lengths (hip length and cropped top) and two sleeve lengths (3/4 sleeve and sleeveless).

 

Gauge Swatch – Use Hook J/6.00 mm

Gauge is important, please take time to make a gauge swatch.

Row 1: Ch 27, dc in 4^th ch from hook and each remaining ch to end.

Row 2: Ch3, turn, dc in each st to end.

Repeat Row 2 until the piece measures at least 5 inches. Compare to listed gauge and adjust hook as needed.

 

 

 

 

 

Chelsea Top Instructions

Yoke:

With Hook J/6.00 mm – FSC 68 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 124), join to first st to form circle.

Round 1: Ch3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in same stitch, ch2, 2dc in next st, dc in next 15, (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 29) sts, *2dc in next st, ch2, 2dc in next st, dc in next 15, (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 29) sts*, repeat between * to end, join. Sl st in next st and into ch2 space. (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 132 + 4 corners)

Round 2: Ch5 (counts a dc + ch2), dc in same corner, ch1, dc in next dc, [ch1, skip 1, dc in next dc] repeat to next corner, ch1, *[dc, ch2, dc] in corner, ch1, dc in next dc, [ch1, skip 1, dc in next dc] repeat to next corner, ch1*, repeat between * to end, join to 3^rd ch of the beginning ch5. Sl st into corner. (92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 148 + 4 corners)

Round 3: [Ch3, dc, ch2, dc] in corner, *[ch1, dc in next dc], repeat to next corner, ch1, [dc, ch2, 2dc] in corner, dc in each st to next corner*, [2dc, ch2, dc] in corner, repeat between * to end, join. Sl st in next st and into corner. (108, 116, 124, 132, 140, 148, 164 + 4 corners)

Rounds 4 to 11, (12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19): Repeat Round 3. The stitch count will increase by 16 for each round. (236, 260, 300, 324, 348, 372, 420 + 4 corners after last repeat)

 

 

Bodice – Hip Length:

 

Round 1 (Establish Bodice): Ch3, dc in same corner, place a marker in this corner after the dc, *ch3, skip all stitches in mesh area, place a marker in the next corner and work 2dc in the same corner, dc in each dc to next corner*, 2dc in corner, place a marker in this corner after the second dc, repeat between * once, join. Fasten off.

 

Round 2: Join in middle ch of the underarm (it doesn’t matter which side), ch2 (does not count as a stitch throughout), dc in the same ch and each ch and dc to end, join. (132, 144, 164, 176, 188, 200, 224)

Rounds 3 to 7 (Hook I/5.5 mm): Ch2, dc in each st to end, join. (132, 144, 164, 176, 188, 200, 224)

Rounds 8 to 16 (Hook H/5.0 mm): Ch2, dc in each st to end, join. (132, 144, 164, 176, 188, 200, 224)

Rounds 17 to 21 (Hook I/5.5 mm): Ch2, dc in each st to end, join. (132, 144, 164, 176, 188, 200, 224)

Round 22 (Hook J/6.0 mm): Ch2, dc in each st to end, join. (132, 144, 164, 176, 188, 200, 224)

Repeat Round 22 until top measures 19.5”, (20”, 21”, 21”, 21”, 22”, 22”) from nape of neck – this is the finished length of the top less 3”, if you want a longer top, you would add more repeats. (132, 144, 164, 176, 188, 200, 224)

Next Round: Ch2, 2dc in first st, dc in next 65, (71, 81, 87, 93, 99, 111) sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each st to end, join. (134, 146, 166, 178, 190, 202, 226)

 

Border:

Round 1: Ch4 (counts as dc + ch1), skip 1, [dc in next st, ch1, skip 1] around to end, join. (134, 146, 166, 178, 190, 202, 226)

Rounds 2 to 4: Ch4 (counts as dc + ch1), [dc in next st, ch1] around to end, join. (134, 146, 166, 178, 190, 202, 226)

Round 5: Ch2, dc in each ch1 space and each dc to end, join. (134, 146, 166, 178, 190, 202, 226)

Round 6: Working loosely in back loop only, ch1, sc in each st to end, join. Fasten off.

 

Bodice – Cropped Length:

Rounds 1 & 2: Follow Rounds 1 & 2 of Bodice – Hip Length.

Rounds 3 to 11 (Hook I/5.5 mm): Ch2, dc in each st to end, join. (132, 144, 164, 176, 188, 200, 224)

Rounds 12 to 21 (Hook H/5.0 mm): Ch2, dc in each st to end, join. (132, 144, 164, 176, 188, 200, 224)

Edge: Working loosely in back loop only, sc in each st to end, join. Fasten off.

 

¾ Sleeves (Hook J/6.00 mm):

 

Round 1: With right side of top facing you, join yarn at center stitch at underarm. Ch4 (counts as dc + ch1 throughout), skip next st, dc around post of next st, ch1, dc in marked ch2 space, ch1, [dc in next dc, ch1] across to end of mesh section, placing last dc in marked ch2 space, dc around post of next st, ch1, join to 3^rd ch of beginning ch4. (35, 38, 43, 46, 49, 52, 58 ch1 spaces)

 

For Sizes S, M, L

Rounds 2 & 3: Ch4, [dc in next dc, ch1] around to end, join to 3^rd ch of beginning ch4. (35, 38, 43 ch1 spaces)

Round 4 (decrease round See Figure 1): Ch2 (does not count as a stitch and you will not work into the stitch where you made the join), [dc in next dc, ch1] around until last dc before previous join, dc in last dc and sl st into first st of round. Note, the combination of the first dc and last dc counts as one stitch for the next round. (33, 36, 41 ch1 spaces)

Repeat Rounds 2 to 4 until (27, 28, 29 ch1 spaces remain. Note: Each repeat is a decrease of 2 ch1 spaces.

Next Round: Ch4, [dc in next dc, ch1] around to end, join to 3^rd ch of beginning ch4. (27, 28, 29 ch1 spaces)

Repeat Next Round (if necessary) until sleeve measures 10”, (11”, 11) at the underarm.

 

For Sizes XL, 2X, 3X

Rounds 2 & 3: Ch4, [dc in next dc, ch1], repeat to end, join to 3^rd ch of beginning ch4. (46, 49, 52 ch1 spaces)

Round 4 (decrease round See Figure 1): Ch2 (does not count as a stitch and you will not work into the stitch where you made the join), [dc in next dc, ch1] around until last dc before previous join, dc in last dc and sl st into first st of round. Note, the combination of the first dc and last dc counts as one stitch for the next round.  (44, 47, 50 ch1 spaces)

Repeat Rounds 3 & 4 until (28, 29, 30 ch1 spaces remain. Note: Each repeat is a decrease of 2 ch1 spaces.

Next Round: Ch4, [dc in next dc, ch1] around to end, join to 3^rd ch of beginning ch4. (28, 29, 30 ch1 spaces)

Repeat Next Round (if necessary) until sleeve measures 11”, (12”, 12”) at the underarm.

 

For Size 4X

Round 2: (decrease round See Figure 1): Ch2 (does not count as a stitch and you will not work into the stitch where you made the join), [dc in next dc, ch1] around until last dc before previous join, dc in last dc and sl st into first st of round. Note, the combination of the first dc and last dc counts as one stitch for the next round. (56 ch1 spaces)

Round 3: Ch4, [dc in next dc, ch1] around to end, join to 3^rd ch of beginning ch4. (58 ch1 spaces)

Repeat Rounds 2 & 3 until 32 ch1 spaces remain. Note: Each repeat is a decrease of 2 ch1 spaces.

Sleeve should measure 13” at the underarm.

 

Sleeve Border (All Sizes):

Round 1: Ch2, (each dc and ch1 count as a stitch), dc2tog, dc in each ch1 space and each dc until 2 sts remain, dc2tog, join. (52, 54, 56, 54, 56, 58, 62 dc)

Round 2: Working loosely in back loop only, sc in each st to end, join. Fasten off. (52, 54, 56, 54, 56, 58, 62 sc)

 

Sleeveless Finish (Hook H/5.00 mm):

Round 1: With right side of top facing you, join yarn at center stitch of underarm. Ch1, work sc in each st and ch1 space around entire armhole, join.

Round 2: Working loosely in back loop only, sc in each st to end, join. Fasten off.

 

I hope you’ve enjoyed making the Chelsea Top and will share your finished projects on social media with the #patternparadisecrochet!

 

Don’t lose it – Pin the Chelsea Top for later!

 

 

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