This is the fourth in the Slipper Of The Month series. You see a few years ago, I did an experiment. I designed a basic hat and named it the Chameleon Hat. Each month I modified it in keeping with the season or holiday for that month. It was a lot of fun and a very popular series, so the following year I ran a month event called the X Stitch Challenge, where I used the X stitch for a seasonal pattern each month. I thought it was time to bring back the monthly series and slippers seemed to be the perfect subject. So come back each month to see the slipper for that month and I hope you’ll join along too!
April Showers Slippers
This month’s Slipper Of The Month is the April Showers Slipper! I made samples in both Red Heart With Love Chunky and two strands held together of Red Heart Soft (yardage is based on With Love Chunky, you will need approximately double the yardage if you use two strands of worsted together). I loved the result with both yarns, just be sure to check gauge carefully with the double strands before you start.
This month’s pattern has the same thick, soft, cushy double sole as previous months, and the top from the toe to the ankle is worked the same too, but from the ankle up it takes on a different personality.
April Showers Slippers
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Remember that old saying, “April Showers, bring May Flowers”? I had that in mind when I designed these slippers. Then that took me memories of those rubber rain boots we all had as kids — you know, the ones with the cutout handles on the sides so you could pull them on — and that’s how the design came to life! I love them in so many bright color combinations!
Since I designed these for both men and women, I sized them based on length in inches. The chart below can help you figure out what US shoe size that equates to but remember, the measurement in inches is always the best choice for a good fit.
Whether you make them for your favorite man or woman, I think you’ll be pleased with them!
April Showers Slippers
Materials:
- Made with #5 Bulky yarn**, I used Red Heart With Love Chunky in two colors:
- Color 1 (Lilac): 110 – 190 yards
- Color 2 (Peacock): 230 – 380 yards
- Hook US I/5.50 mm
- Hook US J/6.00 mm
- Stitch markers (6)
- Tapestry Needle
** I’ve had success in using two strands of worsted weight (#4) yarn together as well, just be sure to check gauge.
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Gauge: 12 sc x 14 rows = approximately 4” – for best fit, please take the time to make a gauge swatch
Abbreviations (US Terms):
ch: chain
hdc: half double crochet
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
Notes:
- Pattern written in US Standard terms.
- Weave in ends as you work.
- The ch1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch.
- The stitch count is in ( ) at end of each round/row.
- The ch1 within a round DOES count as a stitch.
- Join rounds with slip stitch to first stitch of round.
- Start each round in the join.
Sole (All Sizes) – work in Hook I/5.50 mm:
- Make 2 in each color
- For the Sole, the sl st used to join rounds counts as a stitch.
Starting Chain: Ch1, (14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29)
Round 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17) hdc (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10), hdc 8 in last ch; working along opposite side, hdc (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10), sc (6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16), 2sc in next st, join. (34, 40, 46, 52, 58, 64 including sl st)
Round 2: Ch1, sc (14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29), 2sc in each of next 4 sts, sc (14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29), 2sc in next st, 1sc in sl st, join. (40, 46, 52, 58, 64, 70 including sl st)
Round 3: Ch1, sc (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32), 2sc in each of next 2 sts, sc (18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33), 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 1 sc in sl st, join. (44, 50, 56, 62, 68, 74 including sl st)
Round 4: Ch1, sc in first st, hdc (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32), 2hdc in each of next 2 sts, hdc (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32), sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in sl st, join. Fasten off. (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78 including sl st)
Repeat for next Sole.
Join Soles and Establish Sides:
For remainder of pattern, sl st to join rounds does NOT count as a stitch.
Round 1: With wrong sides of two soles facing each other (one sole in each color) and with Color 1 facing you, match stitches. With Color 2 and starting in Center Back at heel, working through both thicknesses, sl st loosely around Round 4 of Sole to join soles together join. (48, 54, 60,66, 72, 78)
Round 2: Ch1, sc in each sl st from joining the two soles, to the end, join. (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78)
Round 3: Ch1, sc in each st to end, join. Fasten off. (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78)
Round 4: (BASE ROW): Mark center stitch at toe. With toe facing you, join Color 2 in stitch to the right of marked st, sc in each st to end, join. (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78)
Toe and Top:
Crochet the top of the slipper starting at the toe, and join it to the Sole section by picking up stitches on the base at the end of each row, as you work toward the ankle section.
Before continuing with the next section, you will mark several stitches to help you with where to end increases and where to start the Ankle section. You will increase one stitch each row up to the first stitch marker on either side of the center toe marker; you will continue with the same stitch count up to the second stitch marker on either side of the center toe marker.
Move stitch marker at center toe to current round. Mark the designated stitches to the right and left of center toe marker as follows (See Figure 1):
- Size 7.5”: Mark stitches 7 & 15
- Size 8.5”: Mark stitches 7 & 17
- Size 9.5”: Mark stitches 9 & 19
- Size 10.5”: Mark stitches 9 & 21
- Size 11.5”: Mark stitches 11 & 23
- Size 12.5”: Mark stitches 11 & 25
Row 1: Ch1, 2sc in same st, skip next st (the one with the marker in it), 2sc in next st. (4)
Row 2: DO NOT ch1, turn, skip first st, sc in each st of previous row, sc in next 2 sts in BASE ROW. (5)
Follow separate instructions for your size
For 7.5 size
Rows 3 to 7: Repeat Row 2. This will increase stitch count by 1 for each row (See Figure 2). (10 after last repeat)
Rows 8 to 15: DO NOT ch1, turn, skip first 2 sts, sc in each st of the previous row, sc in next 2 sts in the BASE ROW (See Figure 3). (10)
Skip to Ankle
For 8.5 size
Rows 3 to 7: Repeat Row 2. This will increase stitch count by 1 for each row (See Figure 2). (10 after last repeat)
Rows 8 to 17: DO NOT ch1, turn, skip first 2 sts, sc in each st of the previous row, sc in next 2 sts in the BASE ROW (See Figure 3). (10)
Skip to Ankle
For 9.5 size
Rows 3 to 9: Repeat Row 2. This will increase stitch count by 1 for each row (See Figure 2). (12 after last repeat)
Rows 10 to 19: DO NOT ch1, turn, skip first 2 sts, sc in each st of the previous row, sc in next 2 sts in the BASE ROW (See Figure 3). (12)
Skip to Ankle
For 10.5” size
Rows 3 to 9: Repeat Row 2. This will increase stitch count by 1 for each row (See Figure 2). (12 after last repeat)
Rows 10 to 21: DO NOT ch1, turn, skip first 2 sts, sc in each st of the previous row, sc in next 2 sts in the BASE ROW (See Figure 3). (12)
Skip to Ankle
For 11.5” size
Rows 3 to 11: Repeat Row 2. This will increase stitch count by 1 for each row (See Figure 2). (14 after last repeat)
Rows 12 to 23: DO NOT ch1, turn, skip first 2 sts, sc in each st of the previous row, sc in next 2 sts in the BASE ROW (See Figure 3). (14)
Skip to Ankle
For 12.5” size
Rows 3 to 11: Repeat Row 2. This will increase stitch count by 1 for each row (See Figure 2). (14 after last repeat)
Rows 12 to 25: DO NOT ch1, turn, skip first 2 sts, sc in each st of the previous row, sc in next 2 sts in the BASE ROW (See Figure 3). (14)
Ankle – work in Hook J/6.00 mm:
Worked in a spiral (do not join the rounds), it may be helpful to mark the first stitch of each round to keep count.
Round 1: Working in stitches around Heel and Top, sc in each st to end, be sure to work a stitch in the space before the 1st st of the top (See Figure 4). (28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42)
Rounds 2 to 5: Ch1, hdc in each st to end. (28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42)
Round 6: [Sc, ch1, skip 1] around to end. (28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42)
Round 7: [Sc in next ch1 space, ch1] around to end. (28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42)
Place a stitch marker in a ch1 space on either side of the slipper (one on the inner leg, one on the outside of the leg) and move the marker up as you work each round.
Round 8 (increase round): *[Sc in next ch1 space, ch1] to marked stitch, work [sc, ch1, sc, ch1] in marked stitch*, repeat between * once, [Sc in next ch1 space, ch1] to end. (32, 34, 38, 40, 44, 46)
Rounds 9 & 10: Repeat Row 7. (32, 34, 38, 40, 44, 46)
Round 11: Repeat Row 8. (36, 40, 42, 44, 48, 50)
Rounds 12 & 13: Repeat Row 7. (36, 40, 42, 44, 48, 50)
Round 14: Repeat Row 8. (40, 44, 46, 48, 52, 54)
Round 15: Repeat Row 7. (40, 44, 46, 48, 52, 54)
Round 16: Repeat Row 8. (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58)
Rounds 17 to 21: Repeat Round 7. (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58)
Round 22: Repeat Round 7, sl st in next ch1 space. Fasten off. (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58)
Top Border:
Place a stitch marker in center back ch1 space of slipper.
Round 1: Join Color 1 at marked stitch, ch1, 2sc in each ch1 space around, join. (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58)
Round 2: Ch1, sc in each sc around, join. (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58)
Round 3 (opening round): Ch1, sc (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10), ch8, skip 8, sc (14, 16, 17, 18, 20, 20), ch8, skip 8, sc to end join. (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58)
Round 4: Ch1, sc in each st (sc and ch1) to end, join. (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58)
Round 5 & 6: Ch1, sc in each st to end, join.
Rounds 7: Turn to work from inside of slipper, working loosely, sl st in each st to end, join. Fasten off. (44, 48, 50, 52, 56, 58)
Please note: The photos below may not reflect the stitch count for your specific size. They are offered for guidance as the process is the same for all sizes.
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